The ladder of marks, one by one

One gram of gold, five published prices

8 min read · Marks of 30 September 2026

Dubai Jewellery Group publishes a suggested retail price for five karat marks, in dirhams per gram of jewellery. The marks are 24, 22, 21, 18 and 14 karat. Each mark is a different proportion of gold in the alloy, and each proportion is fixed. The published prices therefore sit on a ladder, with the higher marks above the lower ones. But the price per gram of fine gold is a different ladder, and it does not fall with purity.

One tariff, five marks

Each published price, divided by the gold the mark actually contains.

Karat markShelf price, per gramGold in itPer gram of fine goldAgainst 24K
24K · 999AED 504.0099.9%AED 504.50+0.00%
22K · 916AED 466.7591.7%AED 509.16+0.92%
21K · 875AED 447.5087.5%AED 511.43+1.37%
18K · 750AED 383.5075.0%AED 511.33+1.35%
14K · 585AED 299.2558.5%AED 511.54+1.39%

Marks published: 13.10.2026 17:40

What the five marks contain

A karat mark states how many parts of gold are in twenty-four parts of alloy. At 24 karat, the proportion is 999 parts per thousand, which is the practical ceiling for fine gold. At 22 karat it is 916, at 21 karat 875, at 18 karat 750 and at 14 karat 585. The rest is other metal, added for colour and for hardness.

These proportions are fixed by convention and by law. A piece stamped 18 karat must contain 750 parts of gold per thousand, and the hallmark is there to certify that. The proportion is not a grade of quality; it is a recipe. A lower mark is not worse gold, it is less gold per gram of jewellery.

What the published price is a price of

The Dubai Jewellery Group price is a price per gram of jewellery at each mark, not a price per gram of gold. A gram of 18 karat jewellery contains less gold than a gram of 21 karat, so it should cost less. The published price reflects that, and the ladder falls from 24 karat down to 14 karat.

But the published price also includes a retail margin, and that margin is not the same for every mark. The lower marks carry a higher margin per gram of gold, and that is what the division by purity exposes. The published price is a shop price, not a metal price.

The division that shows the tariff

Divide the published price per gram of jewellery by the proportion of gold the mark carries, and you get a price per gram of fine gold. That is the only rate that can be compared mark against mark. When you do that division on the Dubai prices, three of the marks land on one and the same rate per gram of fine gold: 21, 18 and 14 karat.

That sameness is not a coincidence. It means those three marks are not quoted as separate markets. They are derived from a single tariff for fine gold, with a different amount of metal in each gram of jewellery. The lower marks are not cheaper gold; they are the same gold in a smaller amount.

Where 22 and 24 karat sit

The division by purity puts 22 karat a little below the rate shared by 21, 18 and 14. That means the published price for 22 karat carries a slightly smaller margin per gram of fine gold than the three marks below it. It is still derived from the same tariff, but the trade body suggests a slightly lower mark-up on that mark.

24 karat sits below that again. The published price for 24 karat, divided by its purity, gives the lowest rate per gram of fine gold of the five. That is the arithmetic of the ladder: the highest mark carries the lowest tariff per gram of metal. The buyer who wants the most gold for the least margin should look at the top of the ladder.

What the table shows and what it does not

A live table sits above this text. The first column names the karat mark. The second column shows the suggested retail price per gram of jewellery at that mark, in dirhams. The third column shows the price per gram of fine gold, arrived at by dividing the second column by the proportion of gold the mark carries.

The table shows the arithmetic, not the advice. It does not show making charges, which are added at the counter and are published nowhere. It does not show what a buy-back counter pays. It shows the published suggestion and the division that exposes its structure.

The idea of a better rate on a lower mark

A buyer who chooses a lower mark because the price per gram is lower is paying more for every gram of gold actually received. That is the one thing a buyer choosing a mark for value, rather than for looks, needs to know. The lower mark is not a cheaper market; it is a dearer tariff on the same fine gold.

The better rate, if the only measure is gold received for dirham paid, is at the top of the ladder. But value is not only gold content. A lower mark may be harder, a different colour, or better suited to daily wear. The arithmetic speaks to one thing only: how much of the money goes on gold and how much on the rest.

The buyer pays for the alloy twice

When a lower karat mark is chosen, the piece contains more alloy metal by weight. That alloy is not free, though it is never shown as a separate line at the counter. Its cost is folded into the gram price and recovered in full from the buyer at the moment of purchase.

The arithmetic behind the table makes this visible. Dividing the published price by the actual gold weight inside exposes a higher cost per gram of fine gold as the karat drops. The buyer is therefore paying for the base metal as if it were gold, and paying again because the alloy adds weight that raises the total bill.

This double charge is structural, not a dealer's fault. Every seller in the market works from the same price lists and the same karat definitions. The choice of mark is the buyer's, and with it comes the decision to carry more alloy and pay for it at gold-equivalent rates.

The resale price is set by the same division, but without the making charge

At buy-back, the counter does not look at the original published price or the design. It weighs the piece, reads the karat mark, and applies a formula that strips out the alloy. What remains is the fine gold content, priced at that day's internal rate for pure metal.

The making charge disappears entirely in resale. A buyer who paid a higher making charge for a lower karat piece recovers none of it. The only value that survives is the gold inside, and for a lower karat that is a smaller fraction of the same gram.

This is why the table's third column matters more at resale than at purchase. A buyer who ignored it when buying will still be subject to it when selling. The mark determines how much of the piece is gold, and the buy-back counter pays only for that.

A lower karat mark can hide a worse making charge

Making charges are not regulated as a percentage of gold content. A shop may charge a flat fee per gram, a percentage of the published price, or a design-based premium. When the charge is quoted as a percentage of the total price, a lower karat piece with a lower total price can appear cheaper even if the charge per gram of fine gold is higher.

The table cannot show this because it contains only published metal prices, not making charges. A buyer who compares two pieces only by their karat mark and total price may be comparing different making charges without knowing it. The lower karat piece may cost more for the actual gold received once the charge is included.

To avoid this, the buyer must ask for the making charge separately and then add it to the fine gold cost from the table. Only that combined figure shows which mark is truly cheaper. Without it, the karat mark is a blindfold rather than a guide.

The colour of the alloy is not a neutral choice

Lower karat gold in Dubai is often alloyed to appear white, pink, or even green. The metals used to create these colours have different densities and costs. A white gold piece at 18 karat may contain palladium or nickel, while a rose gold piece relies on copper. These alloy choices change the weight of the piece and the price the seller must recover.

Because the karat mark only specifies gold content, not alloy composition, two 18 karat pieces can have different actual fine gold costs per gram once the alloy is priced. The table's third column uses a standard assumption for alloy cost, but the counter may not. A buyer who chooses a mark for its colour may be paying a premium for the alloy that the table does not reflect.

The practical consequence is that colour preference can push a buyer toward a karat mark that is arithmetically worse for value. The table shows the base metal cost as a single line, but in the shop the alloy is not uniform. The buyer who insists on a particular colour may be paying for that choice above and beyond the karat mark.

The marks in one word

24 karatpurest
22 karat916
21 karat875
18 karat750
14 karat585
Choosing a mark

Questions about karat marks

Why do three marks land on one rate per gram of fine gold?

Because the published prices for those three marks are derived from a single tariff for fine gold. The trade body sets a rate per gram of fine gold, then multiplies it by the proportion of gold in each mark to get the suggested retail price. That multiplication gives three different shop prices, but the underlying rate is one.

Is 22 karat a better deal than 21 karat?

In terms of gold received per dirham, yes. The division by purity puts 22 karat a little below the rate shared by 21, 18 and 14, meaning the suggested margin on 22 karat is slightly smaller. But the difference is small, and making charges can erase it.

Does the table include making charges?

No. Making charges are added at the counter and are not part of the suggested retail price. They vary by shop and by piece, and they are published nowhere. The table shows the suggested price per gram of jewellery and the price per gram of fine gold, nothing else.

Why is 24 karat below the others in the third column?

Because the published price for 24 karat, divided by its purity, gives the lowest rate per gram of fine gold. The trade body suggests a smaller margin on the purest mark, perhaps because it is bought as investment more than as jewellery. The arithmetic is clear: the top mark carries the lowest tariff.

Should I always buy the highest karat for value?

If gold content is the only measure, then yes. But a higher karat is softer and more easily scratched. A lower mark may be more durable for a ring worn daily. The arithmetic speaks to gold received per dirham; it does not speak to how the piece will wear.

Before you buy

Know the arithmetic the counter runs

The published price per gram is not the price of a gram of gold. It is the price of a gram of jewellery at that mark. Divide it by the gold the mark carries and the lower marks show themselves as a tariff, not a market.